Via Annaba
Via Annaba takes us to the 2023 Annaba Mountain Week in Algeria, an event organized by the French Institute of Annaba and produced by CSPS Aïn Beïda and Nephrops Prod. During this event, climbers from Algeria, France, and Spain gathered for numerous outdoor sports workshops along Annaba's magnificent, rugged coastline: rock climbing, setting a via ferrata route, deep water soloing, scuba diving, and more. This film, a true postcard of Annaba, a city nicknamed "the charming one," is also, and above all, a pretext for inspiring encounters and a contribution to the development of mountain sports in Algeria.
Wild One
In 1977, Philippe Ribiere is born in Martinique with the Rubinstein-Taybi Syndrome. Abandoned by his parents, he is left to the hospital, where he is bound to spend the first four years of his life and undergo a series of arm and leg operations. He is alone and different. At the age of 4, he is taken to France to be adopted by a French family. In 1994, Philippe discovers climbing, which is much more of a challenge to him than it is to others. However, he also discovers how to turn his handicap into an advantage trough climbing and so make his way into the society. The story of Philippe Ribiere is a story of loneliness, searching for the answers, discovering of being different, it is a story of courage, will, fearlessness, freedom, seeking for love and overcoming the impossible.
Séo!
The film shows Catherine Destivelle's trip to Dogon Country, in Mali, where she will make spectacular free solo rock climbing ascents in the sun-warmed cliffs of Bandiagara. Destivelle is accompanied on this trip by a friend climber, Lucien Abbet. A film by Pierre-Antoine Hiroz produced in 1987 by Paradoxe and also featuring Tidjani Koné, Ibrahim Dolo, and the Dogon inhabitants of the Bandiagara Escarpment. The film won the Genziana D'argento for best free climbing film at the Trento Film Festival in 1987.
Opera Vertical
Vertical Opera is a documentary film directed by Jean-Paul Janssen, with climbers Patrick Edlinger and Jean-Paul Lemercier in the Gorges du Verdon. The film opens with a training sequence of Patrick Edlinger then he links the routes with Jean-Paul Lemercier "L'Ange en décongelation" (7a), in which he falls voluntarily to demonstrate the usefulness of the rope, then "Le Septième Saut" (7b+). Finally, the final scene, an anthology, consists of a close-up of Edlinger who climbs free solo and barefoot the route "Débiloff", still in the Verdon, above hundreds of meters of void, all to lyrical music. It is "Wie Furchtsam Wankten Meine Schritte", the aria for alto voice from Johann Sebastian Bach's cantata BWV 33, music not unrelated to the subject of the documentary: "How faltering and fearful my steps were".
Rough Diamond
Climber Philippe Ribière was born in Martinique. Abandoned and subsequently adopted by a large family in France, Ribière underwent numerous surgeries to improve the functionality of his limbs. Yet today, he is the first sponsored climber with a disability, an elite athlete, and the founder of the "Handi-Grimpe" association. Returning to Martinique with the ambition of climbing the famous Diamond Rock—an uninhabited island located two kilometers off the coast, whose shape inspired its name—holds deep symbolic significance for him.
Moving Over Stone
Writer and mountain guide Doug Robinson explains the sport of climbing, focusing on the climbing movement, with several leading climbers providing examples on challenging routes across the United States.
Lulu, Climbing Route Opener
Lucien Abbet, better known as Lulu, is a pioneer of sport climbing and route-breaking in Valais. Although considered one of the best climbers of his generation in the field, his humility and his way of life have never been able to fit with the codes of public notoriety. Money, recognition, material goods have never interested him. He has devoted his entire life to his passion, a happy vagabond, as he likes to say: climbing and traveling.
The Gate of Heaven
A legendary film in the history of rock climbing in the Verdon Gorges, shot in 16mm between the autumn of 1978 and the spring of 1979 by Henri Agresti, a high mountain guide. For the first time, acrobatic shots were taken on the walls of the Verdon. We rediscover a whole generation of pioneers on routes like Dingomaniaque, Triomphe d'Eros, Péril rouge, Luna Bong, Pichenibule or Necronomicon, routes which, like Dingomanique or Triomphe d'Eros, had just been opened. We witnessed a major turning point in the style and possibilities of rock climbing at the end of the 1970s: anchors sealed by drilling used as belaying and no longer as aids, new equipment: climbing shoes and chalk, harnesses and figure eights. Henri Agresti's unfinished and silent film, lasting around fifty minutes, was presented in the form of a nine-minute fragment at the Trento Film Festival in 1981.
Hoggar 1973
In 1973, 6 guides from the National Ski and Mountaineering School (ENSA), including Charles Daubas and Walter Cecchinel, left by truck from Chamonix to Tamanrasset in the desert in Algeria with the aim of climbing some peaks of the Atakor massif including Adaouda and Tizouyag where they do the first of "La Voie de l'ENSA".
Giusto Gervasutti - Il Solitario Signore delle Pareti
Giusto Gervasutti (1909-1946) was an Italian mountaineer, considered by many to be the best mountaineer of his generation and one of the greatest of the post-war era. He achieved his first feats in 1930 and revolutionized mountaineering in the Western Alps by repeating and opening routes of extreme difficulty that are still considered absolute routes today: the east face of the Grandes Jorasses (with his friend Boccalatte), the northeast spur of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, the Gervasutti route on the Gugliermina, the east face of Mont Blanc du Tacul (where he died in 1946), among an incredible list of climbs. The film, made to mark the centenary of Giusto Gervasutti's birth, portrays a solitary and tormented mountaineer, endowed with an impeccable moral sense, an advocate of light and ethical mountaineering, always in search of an unattainable happiness.
Verdon-Saussois 1983
In 1983, the French Mountain Federation (FFM) organized a landmark climbing gathering in Saussois and the Verdon, bringing together generations of the greatest climbers of the time, including Patrick Edlinger, Jean-Claude Droyer, Jerry Moffatt, Jean-Claude Droyer, Robert Paragot, Lucien Bérardini, Ron Fawcett, Jean-Pierre Bouvier, and other major figures. This event symbolized the emergence of modern sport climbing as a practice in its own right in France, with the liberation of legendary routes and the rise of freestyle climbing, notably under the leadership of Droyer and Edlinger. This gathering was a key moment in the dissemination of the freestyle ethic and the evolution of grading, while Saussois and the Verdon were at the forefront of high difficulty in the world.
The Other End of the Rope
Nine of the most outstanding climbers nowadays come together in this striking documentary about the ethics, values and the very nature of climbing. The brothers Ravier, Christian Ravier, Ekaitz Maiz, Mikel Zabalza, Arkaitz Yurrita, Eneko César and Unai Mendia will show the unknown side of climbing in the Pyrenees. Best Film - Ukerdi Film Festival 2018. Best Documentary - Cuentamontes 2018. Official Selections 2018: Explos Film Festival, Festival du Film de Montagne de Cluses. Official Selection 2017: Bilbao Mendi Film Festival.
Warren Harding - Recollections of the First Ascent of El Capitan in Yosemity Valley
On November 12, 1958, nearly a year and a half after planting his first piton, Warren Harding climbed to the summit of El Capitan, the legendary face of Yosemite, which he became the first to climb via the equally legendary Nose route. An extraordinary undertaking closer to a heavy Himalayan expedition than to rock climbing. Climbing mainly on weekends in the fall and spring with companions whose level of skill was of little importance to him, Warren Harding spent a total of 47 days (spread over 17 months) on the face. 675 pitons (including 125 expansion pitons) and several thousand hammer blows were necessary to build his legend, despite the displeasure of the "Christians of the valley," as he somewhat sardonically nicknamed Royal Robbins and his cronies, who swear by style.
È Pericoloso Sporgersi
È Pericoloso Sporgersi is Robert Nicod's first short film, shot in 1985, featuring four young climbers, two women, Catherine Destivelle and Monique Dalmasso, and two men, Alain Bultel and Marc Lecomte-Durouil, in the Verdon Gorges. In a natural setting of cliffs, rivers, sinkholes and vertical waterfalls, Catherine Destivelle and Monique Dalmasso climb the Bombé de Pichenibule. This progression, filmed as a female climbing adventure, represents a successful first 7b+ ascent for the French champion. The film received the Genziana D'Argento for best sports film at the Trento Film Festival in 1986.
Warren Harding - Recollections of the Wall of the Early Morning Light
In 1970, Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell set out to climb Early Morning Light, better known as Dawn Wall, in Yosemite National Park. Arguably the most controversial climb in the park's history, due to multiple storms and a rescue attempt by the Yosemite Service. The climb thrust the event into the media spotlight, creating a controversy within the local climbing community. In this short documentary, Warren Harding himself recounts the climb.
La Dura Dura
La Dura Dura is a documentary about climbing in Oliana and Margalef. Directed by Josh Lowell in 2012 and produced by Sender Films, it is part of the Reel Rock 7 series. Chris Sharma has dominated the climbing world for 15 years, but a 19-year-old prodigy, Adam Ondra, is now hot on his heels. The legend and the young outsider team up in Spain to open the world's most perilous climbing route.
Life by the Fingertips
Life By The Fingertips is a documentary film by Jean-Paul Janssen released in 1982, directing Patrick Edlinger totally living his passion, climbing, which he practices here solo ("with bare hands"), it that is, without a rope or any kind of insurance. The film begins with a session of solo sea crossings on the Piade site near Toulon. In the second part, Patrick Edlinger trains in Buoux before carving a solo route in this now famous climbing site. This mythical film in more than one way is considered the first climbing film, that is to say where climbing is an activity in itself and not a means of preparing for mountaineering. His media success was such that he propelled Patrick Edlinger to the rank of world star, and above all he made climbing known to the general public, and was even nominated for the César for best documentary short film.
The Call of the Hoggar, In the Heart of Atlantis
Documentary on the French Alpine expedition to Hoggar in Algeria, starring Roger Frison-Roche, Raymond Coche, Pierre Lewden, and François de Chasseloup-Laubat. The 1935 French Alpine Expedition to Hoggar was conceived and prepared by Lieutenant Raymond Coche, the ideal leader for an expedition that would combine alpine and Saharan terrain in Algeria. Among his goals, he set himself the task of leading a French rope team to the still-untouched summits of Atakor and Tefedest and planting the French flag there. His old friend, Pierre Lewden, an athlete and journalist, was soon on the team, and to complete their project and complete the trio, they called on Roger Frison-Roche, a guide from Chamonix and one of the best climbers of this generation. A few days before their departure from Paris, filmmaker Pierre Ichac joined them.
Algeria - Spirit of the Desert
In March 2002, the Italian climbers of the Ragni di Lecco group embarked on an expedition across the Algerian Sahara. Mario Conti, Simone Pedeferri, Marco Vago and Massimo Bosetti, during a long journey, completed numerous ascents: Ihaghen, Adaouda, Tizouyag Sud, Dôme de l'Éléphant (Tesnou mountain range) and around thirty new boulders, including La Gazelle (7b) and Le Guépard (7c). But the main objective was the opening of a new climbing route on the face of Garet El Djenoun, in the Tefedest mountain range. The 400-meter route, named "Mariolino Fotonico", has 13 pitches (8 new, plus 3 spans with "Mosquitoes" and 2 with a "Voie des Espagnoles" from 1985), with a maximum difficulty of 8a/A1. This film has a special significance, as it is the first film of the rebirth of the Ragni group, after the 90s marked by tragedy, and at the same time the end of the tragic black decade in Algeria which raged between 1992 and 2002.
Verdon - The Show Must Go On
Documentary on climbing in the famous Verdon gorges, a mecca for world climbing. From Bernard Vaucher to Catherine Destivelle, from Bernard Gorgeon to Lionel Catsoyannis via Enzo Oddo and Fabien Ristori, relive the evolution of climbing in Verdon through testimonies and anecdotes from climbers from different generations. History, anecdotes and emotions from the early 60s to the present day, with an eye towards the future. Can we define ourselves as a climber without having visited the Verdon?